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Arizer Air 2 Teardown and Disassembly

Arizer AIR 2 Disassembled – breaking vapes down and gettin’ all up in there! 

Arizer is one of the most trusted names in the vaporizer industry and their vapes are known for top tier build quality and performance. Their first portable on the scene was the Arizer Solo which quickly gained a huge following for being one of the first pocket vapes capable of producing clouds on par with desktop vaporizers. A couple years after the Solo’s release the Arizer Air was created to provide the same thick, flavorful vapor in a slimmer and more pocket friendly form. This year Arizer dropped the Solo 2 and Air 2, upgraded models with improved battery life, quicker heat up times and LED displays with full single digit temperature control. This Summer we did a full teardown of the Solo II and now the Air II is getting the same treatment. Reminder: Disassembling your vape will void the warranty, do not follow along with us.

arizer air 2 portable vaporizer teardown 2

Cap and Battery Removal

The first step in disassembling the Air 2 was removing the top cap, battery cap and battery. The battery cap is meant to be removed for easy access to the battery but never take off the top piece, there is a warranty voiding seal in place between the top section and body. The Air II’s battery is a Panasonic NCR18650B, a high output Li-ion with a 3400-3600mAh capacity. Panasonic is the same brand that Tesla uses for the Li-ion cells in their battery packs and the NCR18650B is in the top range of charge capacity for 18650 batteries.

arizer air 2 teardown 2

New Screen and Controls

Here’s a closer look at the Air 2’s face. The original Arizer Air had a dual button control scheme with a single LED light displaying a color corresponding to one of five temperature choices. The Arizer Air II offers single digit temperature selection from 122-428°F (50-220°C) controlled with three buttons and a digital screen. The screen provides temp and battery info and a new settings menu allows changes to the volume of the notification beeps, session timer and a bunch of other options not available in the first Air.

arizer air teardown top piece removal 4

Heater Cover Removal

The next step was removing the heating chamber cover from the top of the unit. The heater cover was held in place with two very small screws; a longer screw in the base and a silicone retaining ring on the top keep the internals snugly secured in place. We removed the chamber cover before the aluminum chassis because we thought the electronics would slide out from the bottom of the shell; turns out the guts pull out from the top, pumpkin style.

arizer air 2 chamber unscrewed

Chassis Removal, Heater Detachment

The next part to go was the outer aluminum shell. Friction fit inside the shell is the protective enclosure that houses the circuit board and wiring. Once the chassis is removed we were able to detach the heater assembly from the electronics enclosure by removing 4 retaining screws and a small metal retention plate.

arizer air 2 portable vaporizer teardown circuitry front

Circuit Board Front and LED Screen

After removing the inner enclosure piece we have full access to the inner workings of the Air 2 including the PCB and the LED screen. The wiring connection points are all very clean and secure and you can also see the three button actuators are made of metal instead of plastic that could wear down over time.

arizer air 2 circuitry 2 back usb port

Circuit Board Back and USB Port

On the back of the Air II’s primary circuit board you can see the Micro-USB connection. The USB port is on a secondary PCB connected to the main circuit board. A strip of padding acts as a protective cushion between the circuit board and the electronics enclosure sleeve.

arizer air 2 portable vaporizer teardown chamber removal heating element

Heating Chamber Removal

Here we take a closer look at the Air 2’s heater assembly. The stainless steel chamber is friction fit inside this beige retaining piece and the three silicone o-rings at the base of the metal heating chamber isolate the airpath from the electronics.

arizer air portable chamber removal heating element

Heating Element

The heating element is sandwiched between a retaining plate and the stainless steel heating chamber using a heavy duty screw. The heater and temperature gauge wiring is nice and thick to hold up to years of electrical transfer.

arizer air portable vaporizer heating element removal temprature guage

Heating Element Disassembly

With the heavy duty screw and retaining plate removed we now have access to the good stuff. The ceramic ring on the right with the thicker blue wire is the heating element.  The ceramic disc on the left is the temperature sensor. A small piece of thermal putty cushions the temperature gauge’s connections and shields them from the heating plate. The heater assembly has the retaining plate on the bottom with the temperature sensor on top and the heater sandwiched directly between the temp sensor and the heating chamber base. The heating disc raises the temperature of the entire stainless steel bowl section which in turn heats the material loaded in your mouthpiece via conduction.

arizer air stainless steel chamberarizer air 2 portable vaporizer stainless steel chamber

Different Generations, Different Chambers

The Arizer Air’s heating chamber has evolved quite a bit over time for the sake of more open airflow. The chamber on the far left was the original release with four small air jets. The middle chamber with the expanded air wells was released in 2016. The grooves surrounding each air hole ensures the mouthpiece can’t sit flat against the base of the chamber and obscure the jets. On the right is the Air 2’s heating chamber with air wells and expanded air jets which provide a noticeable improvement in flow. A thin layer of high temperature thermal paste helps heat transfer more efficiently between the ceramic heating disc and the base of the steel chamber similar to the thermal paste between a CPU and heat-sink in a computer.

Closing Thoughts

The Arizer Air was widely believed to be a convection / conduction hybrid vape but after fully taking apart the upper chamber and heater we can safely conclude the Air and Air 2 and most likely the Solo and Solo 2 are purely conduction vapes without any convection heating. Conduction is known for providing much better battery life than convection or even hybrid heating so the Arizer portable’s unusually long run time per charge makes a lot of sense. The build quality and materials used in the Air II are very sturdy and high quality which is to be expected from Arizer. The heating design is simple but gets incredible results; thick clouds and better flavor than most any other conduction vape due to the material being enclosed in the glass mouthpiece rather than making direct contact with the hot chamber. We’re huge fans of the entire Arizer lineup and recommend them nearly daily. If you’d like to grab one for yourself give these links a click: AIR 2AIRSolo 2, Solo, Extreme Q, V-Tower

If you liked or disliked our Arizer Air II tear down please leave a comment below to let us know. Hit up our Reddit, Instagram or Youtube pages for more vape content and keep an eye on Our Blog for a BIG upcoming sale!


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14 comments on Arizer Air 2 Teardown and Disassembly

  1. November 11, 2017 at 5:13 pmSublime Reply to Sublime
    Once again I am not sure if you got your information correct. You say this is 100% conduction but you also say the plant material does not touch the heater. So how would the heat conduct to the plant material? Instead I believe this to be more of a convection/hybrid. The heater below the plant material gets hot and you start drawing air through the mouth piece and heat travels up to the plant material via convection currents. After the unit has been on for a few minutes the glass in the moth piece may get hot enough to add conduction to the process making it a hybrid. This theory would be backed up by the fact that you say the taste is really good unlike most conduction vapes. Sorry if every comment I make sounds like I am trying to correct you it is just the only time I feel I need to make a comment. I do really like all of your write ups and tear downs I just don't tend to write comments saying just that.
  2. […] our Air 2 Teardown and Solo 2 Teardown blog posts we took note that Arizer is adept at making use of tiny amounts of […]
  3. February 4, 2018 at 7:27 pmD Reply to D
    I understand it's confusing, and a lot of guys like to think their vape is convection, but I think PIU has it dead right. Consider their blog post on the topic: Key in there, I think, is the point that convection vapes typically have separate chambers for heating the air below the load. Consider FireFly, it's so hot down there everything is glowing? Likewise the thermal cores in TV vapes (Ti, Cera, Evolution) all had 1200F or so chambers. The air has to be heated much hotter than 200C so it can give up heat to the load (cooling) and still be above vaping temperature so we get vapor? This is not possible in Solo/Air since the cup is 'only' 200C or so. Heated ('convection heating') air can be no hotter than that. Not enough for the job. And convection is a serious power hog, heating LOTS of air quite hot (and everything around it). We want long battery life and 'cool running'. Here's a couple of easy experiments you can do that might help: Isolate conduction from convection? First heat the unit up well (say a few minutes past 'ready'?) then insert a loaded COLD stem and hit it right away. Full convection heating is available.......but no vapor? Now let the cold stem 'heat soak' for a couple of minutes (no convection but normal conduction), then PULL IT OUT and then hit it without any convection.........a short but normal (vapor filled) hit by conduction alone with no convection? Vapor rapidly disappears of course since convection COOLING is now robbing heat and the load was only 'just there' to start with. You can even leave the stem on top of the oven (rather than in it) so you can test the supposed benefit of convection heating in theory, but not in practice? "A rose by any other name"? The proof is in the vapor, and IMO Solo/Air/ArGo does a mighty fine job there, and that's what counts in the end. Besides we get much better battery life than the convection guys do........ And our vapes stay cooler in use for it.
  4. February 6, 2018 at 12:00 pmAmir Reply to Amir
    Hi, The screen of my Air II is dead. Do you think it's replaceable ? And if yes do you see any model name of it? thanks
    • February 12, 2018 at 5:04 pmJake Reply to Jake
      Hey hey! We can't recommend any home repairs but the Air II has a solid warranty, if you purchased from us hit up with an email. =)
  5. February 7, 2018 at 5:23 pmFabiano Reply to Fabiano
    What type of material is made the beige "plastic". Is it peek?
    • February 13, 2018 at 9:33 pmJake Reply to Jake
      Here is the response we got from Kevin at Arizer: "The material in question is high grade PEEK plastic."
  6. February 13, 2018 at 4:31 pmIsaac Reply to Isaac
    Thanks for the teardown. Its hard to tell from the pics but is the airpath isolated from the electronics?
    • February 13, 2018 at 9:42 pmJake Reply to Jake
      Here's the word directly from Kevin at Arizer: "Yes, the Air II does have an isolated airpath."
  7. May 17, 2018 at 5:29 pmDab Reply to Dab
    Something to add to this: you can connect it to a third-party glass accessory, like a water filter, and it’s pretty awesome. Would have been nice to see a concentrate attachment/accessory though, that would have really taken it to the next level. Still a nice vape though. Can’t wait to see what the next version looks like. Perhaps Arizer will read this and add support for concentrates :)
  8. August 21, 2018 at 6:51 pmmike Reply to mike
    do you have pics of the three silicone rings which seal the airpath between heater and electronics as you say in the review...
    • September 5, 2018 at 5:17 pmZakk Reply to Zakk
      Email me and I will try to take a picture of the rings.
  9. February 19, 2019 at 4:59 pmJames Allen Reply to James Allen
    Ahhh ... nothing on the silicone cap over the oven? Mine just detached by itself?
  10. March 18, 2019 at 4:47 pmJason Reply to Jason
    What is the purpose of the holes in the oven at the bottom? Don't those holes go into the housing where the electronics are? If so- are you then not sucking up air from there?